Major disclaimer: The original post is just a copypasted collection of tweets. Reika didn’t write down every single step of the process, there are some repetitions and overall a lot of mentions of the Japanese 100-Yen supermarket chain Daiso. You can find several Daiso Internationals in America (mostly in Northern California) but for those who don’t have access to those handy stores, try Walmart or general hobby stores!
If you have any questions you consider asking me, please read this first.
Since it’s already spread over twitter, I’ll just leave the copypasta containing all of my tweets over here~.
■I will add a PS at the bottom.
But first of all, pictures of the finished product.
Some minor adjustments and fine-tuning might be necessary, but this is more or less how it is.
Now some pictures while having it equipped.
Also some photos after I did various adjustments here and there. This one’s the most recent status （＾ⅴ＾）
For our followers who have been requesting a 3DMG Tutorial. This is one of the best ones out there!
Finally finished Lucina’s boots! Dear lord it’s been a process. They look pretty good imo, but the front tongue seems to lean to one side for some reason. It was really hard to sew the front shoe cover part, so I figure it was an error from that. But it came out really close to my paper drafts!
More deets behind the cut
Armor Strapping Tutorial by Blacksheep (posted on Cosplay Blog With A Brain)
View the full tutorial here:
Mechanical Steampunk Arm made for Gaslight Gathering. I used the automail designs for inspiration. While it looks gold in the pictures due to the reflection, in person it looks copper similar to the materials picture.
Method: Copper Spandex over craft foam using this process. My advice is to coat only the craft foam, not the fabric as it makes it wrinkle and pucker so stretching it over the foam is a pain. Also, use metal spatulas and wipe them often because cleaning the glue gunk from them is almost impossible.
As a follow up to our Making Worbla Smooth Experiment, here is the detailed write-up regarding the methods used in that experiment.
Making Worbla Smooth
There are many methods for making Worbla smooth so I decided to do a test run myself based on the primary methods others have used. The three main ways of covering Worbla have been using Gesso, Plasti-Dip, or Wood Glue. This experiment only covers Gesso with Mod Podge acrylic sealer or Gesso with Plasti-dip. I didn’t have Wood Glue available during the time of conducting the test so there will be another part to this series that will include a comparison using Wood Glue.
I used 8 layers of Golden Sandable Hard Gesso and 150 Grit Sandpaper. I prefer this Gesso over any clear Gesso as you can actually see the streaks so that when you sand it, you can see the Worbla getting smoother (pictures 3 & 4). In addition, the sandable Gesso has additives that makes it thicker so that you don’t have to do as many layers or as much sanding to make it look good. Yay for that!
You’ll notice I didn’t do a good enough job of sanding so you can still see some streaks in the forth image. If I were to do this again, I would do 6 layers, sand with 150 grit, and then add another 4 layers, then sand again with 150 grit to get a smoother finish (instead of just 8 layers straight). I tried sanding only 4 layers in and unfortunately, I exposed the Worbla, so 6 layers of Gesso is the very minimum in guarding against Worbla exposure. Also, it’s very important that each layer of Gesso dries completely before you put on the next. Otherwise, if you start sanding, the Gesso will chip and take, along with it, all the layers underneath. In picture 4, you will notice this happened on the edges of the Gesso which is why the Worbla is exposed there.
Picture one (left) shows the top piece which is Worbla painted without any additional work. The bottom piece is 8 layers of Gesso, sandpaper, one layer of Mod Podge acrylic sealant, and then one layer of Gold Metallic Paint.
Picture two (right) shows the top piece which is Worbla painted without any additional work. The bottom piece shows Worbla with 8 layers of Gesso, sandpaper, 2 layers of Plasti-Dip, and one layer of Gold Metallic Paint (Rustoleum brand).
Conclusion: I was surprised that the piece with the Mod Podge sealant looks smoother than the one with the Plasti-dip! I think the Plasti-dip made the items look more foam-like than I anticipated. It seems as though the Plasti-dip reacts oddly to Worbla.
Stay tuned when I try this experiment with Wood Glue.
I’ve had a lot of people ask me about the Worbla smoothing process I used on the King Loki build. To simplify explaining things I created this handy infographic. This is just one of many ways to achieve super smooth Worbla. After a lot of testing this is the process I came up with to satisfy my goal for the project. For average builds it’s probably too much work but I hope it may be helpful to some. - coregeek
Another way to smooth Worbla! Thanks for the submission, coregeeknet!